![]() It just is not internally connected so you need to wire it. The travel sensor itself is part of the iBooster assembly, see below photo’s. Main difference is that the GEN2 no longer uses pin 17 for permanent 12V+ to the ECU and above all the travel sensor connector and it’s pin numbering is different. To a large extent the wiring of the GEN1 and GEN2 is identical. Clearance wise at 45 degree you should be OK between ibooster and body (about 9mm) as long as small connector is on top. Any input or experience on that is welcome. iBooster gen2 is 50mm iBooster gen2 is about 100mm Master cylinder is at 45degree on ibooster but you can rotate that if you get your Delorean one to fit. ![]() It is possible to control the iBooster over CAN, we’ll dive into that in the future. Below it will be explained in more detail. Furthermore it requires 12V+ and GND inputs. In that mode the iBooster just uses the input from the travel pedal sensor (integrated onto the iBooster) to operate. Instead we rely on the ‘failsafe mode’ of the iBooster. Here these two are not used and instead of crimp pins, blind plugs are provided in the connector kits. The iBooster ECU has two CAN-BUS connections which are connected to the vehicle CAN and the Yaw sensor. dose any one have any extras or even the full gen1 ibooster harness for reference heres the part numbers i found. Moreover you will be able to fully integrate the iBooster into your wiring loom. It becomes quite straightforward using the GEN1 connector kit and the GEN2 connector kit available from EVcreate with all connectors, terminals / crimp pins, seals and blind plugs. And where to connect which wire to what anyway? This article explains the ins and outs of wiring the Tesla iBooster into your car. ![]() In that case you will still need to extend wires and attach them to your wiring loom. If you are lucky they do come with connectors and a bit of wiring. Most Tesla iBoosters you can buy on eBay or elsewhere come without connectors.
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